Generally, each individual manufacturer has specific cleaning instructions geared towards their own wearability system. These instructions are available on their websites, usually under a tab labeled “Fabric Care”, or “Fabrics”. For more specific information it is recommended that you visit the manufacturers website, which we would be happy to help you with if need be! Some general tips are listed below;

• Vacuum the surface of your furniture regularly, including the deck under the cushions, with the upholstery attachments of your vacuum cleaner.
• Direct sunlight can cause the fabrics to fade. Care should be taken to limit the amount of direct sun on any piece of furniture.
• Loose cushions should be flipped and rotated frequently to minimize soiling and add to the longevity of your upholstery.
• All spills should be cleaned immediately, start by blotting the spill using a clean, absorbent cloth. If stain remains, please follow the care instructions below according to the type of fabric on your upholstery.
• Before spot-treating, it is advised that you inquire about the cleaning code of your specific piece. Always pretest an inconspicuous area of the upholstery before spot cleaning, to ensure the product you are using is not going to damage the fabric.

Each fabric, regardless of the manufacturer, has a universal fabric cleaning code attached to it. To find the cleaning code on your specific fabric, you may go to the manufacturers website and type in the fabric code - or you are welcome to call us here at Sweet Dreams and we can find that for you. The universal cleaning code will instruct you on how to best care for your fabric. The universal codes are as follows;

• “W” - Code W stands for ‘Water based cleaner’, the easiest fabrics to clean. This is not the same as being machine washable. This code means that you can spot clean your fabric with a water-based shampoo or foam upholstery cleaner. You can use a brush to agitate the cleaner or even an upholstery attachment on a carpet cleaner. Be careful to avoid over-wetting the stain.
• “S” - Fabrics that are Code S must be cleaned with solvents (dry clean only). You can spot treat stains with a water-free solvent or dry-cleaning product. Use solvent cleaners in a well-ventilated room and keep away from open flames. Avoid using cleaning products containing carbon tetrachloride, as it is highly toxic.
• “W/S” - A W/S code means that a combination of dry cleaning solvents and water-based cleaners may be used. These fabrics can be spot cleaned with upholstery shampoo, foam from a mild detergent, or a mild dry cleaning solvent. This is a case where the pre-test is especially important. For overall dirt, call a professional to clean these fabrics.
• “X” - Fabrics with Code X  can only be cleaned by vacuuming or light brushing. A Code X means the fabric is not cleanable with water or solvent cleaners.

Each piece of leather comes with its own unique characteristics, from the grain to the markings, to the coloring. When leather is tanned, each hide responds differently to the dyes. No two pieces will take the dye exactly the same, and occasionally there will be noticeable dye lot differences. These are considered a natural part of the manufacturing process and are not considered to be a defect. If you wish to purchase a matching piece in the future, it is possible that there is a slight difference in the dye lots. Another thing to note is that all genuine leather will develop what is referred to as a “Patina”. This is a soft sheen that develops through use and exposure on the surface of the leather which provides personality to the product; a manifestation of the natural aging process that is desired by many for its individual and ‘lived in’ nature. To protect and maintain its beautiful and healthy look, you should avoid using any oils or chemicals that will disrupt its natural aging process.

ou'll want to avoid placing your piece directly in the window or in the sunlight, as too much direct sunlight can cause the leather to fade. You should also place your piece away from any artificial source of heating such as radiators and woodstoves, to prevent your leather from drying or cracking. On the flip side, leather may gather mold or mildew if it is too humid for an extended period of time.

Simple is best, as many products - even those marketed as gentle - can interact in a negative way with the natural Putina of your leather. The best way to care for your furniture is to regularly dust and wipe down the leather. It is recommended that you use a microfiber cloth, slightly dampened with warm water. Ideally, you would use distilled water, as the chlorine in tap water may damage the finish on your leather over time. It will elongate the life of your furniture if you set aside a few minutes each week to follow this process. Take great care not to soak your sofa, as leathers do not take kindly to large quantities of liquid. To get into the nooks and crannies of your sofa, use a vacuum equipped with a soft brush attachment. Steer clear of using all-purpose wipes and sprays which contain chemicals that can damage your sofa. If you wish to use a soft cleaner that is proven and tested to work on leather, it is still advised that you test a small amount on an inconspicuous area of your furniture. Even commercial leather cleaners and leather protection products can cause damage to the Putina of your leather.

Leather has a reputation for being more durable than other upholstery materials, and rightly so. However, it is still vulnerable to staining if some liquid or food is spilt. Unfortunately, there will be occasions when you can’t quite get to a spill in time or you aren’t aware of it happening, and it may result in a stain. The course of action will depend greatly on the nature of the spill or stain itself. The first thing you should do is to take a dry cloth or piece of kitchen roll and carefully blot the spillage area — take great care to avoid wiping or scrubbing, as this can ingrain the liquid into the leather. If you are quick enough, the majority of the spill can be absorbed into the cloth before it soaks into the upholstery, removing the need for deeper cleaning. Please note that greasy or oily spillages can be made worse when encountering water, so this should be avoided.

• DO NOT use the following products; Baking soda, white vinegar, cream of tartar, lemon juice, acetone, wax, cream or oil. 
• Avoid placing your furniture in direct sunlight, or next to any heating sources. 
• Avoid contact with heavily embellished clothing, chunky jewelry, keys, scissors, buckles, and buttons as these can cause damage that you might not anticipate.
• Be aware that dye from non-colourfast clothing and garments, such as denim, can transfer onto leather/fabric and is usually more noticeable on light leather/fabric colors such as whites, creams and ivory. These chemicals can also break down the finish on your piece.
• Consider whether you will allow any pets to jump up onto the sofa, as their claws may accidentally scratch the surface.
• Remember the oils from your skin and hair can rub off onto leather, over time breaking down the finish and dye. If you do not routinely clean your piece, the leather where you rest your head or hands may fade. You may choose to put a blanket or throw over the top of your piece if you find that you frequently rest your head in the same position.
• Be mindful of lotions and products that you may use on your skin or hair as these can easily transfer onto the leather as well.

Four Seasons recommends Professional Dry Cleaning on all fabrics to preserve color and for longevity of the fabric. When using any decorative trims or multiple fabrics on your slipcover, Professional Dry Cleaning is recommended.

If you have a slipcover that is Pre-washed, please follow the Washing Instructions below.

WASHING INSTRUCTIONS:

• BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVERLOAD YOUR WASHER.
• CLOSE ALL ZIPPERS ON SEATS, BACKS, AND THROWS TO PROLONG SEAM LIFE.
• MACHINE WASH COLD, GENTLE CYCLE WITH MILD DETERGENT.
• DRY ON LOW HEAT OR AIR DRY TIL DAMP.
• PUT BACK ON PIECE WHILE
• COVER IS SLIGHTLY DAMP.

GENERAL CARE INFORMATION: To help extend the life of your slipcover, cushions, and frame you need to spend a little time to take care of your furniture. Seat cushions and back pillows should be reversed regularly. Seat cushions should be rotated from side to side. Back pillows and throw pillows should be fluffed regularly. Vacuum with a soft brush attachment to get excess dust and dirt.

Download Stand Fabric Care Instructions

Unlike most furniture, which stems from mass production lines that guarantee each piece looks exactly the same, each and every piece of solid hardwood furniture is hand crafted and full of character. No two trees have the same tones or markings, therefore, no two pieces of hardwood furniture will look the same. Each individual piece of wood will absorb stain or varnish in its own unique way. The same can be said for the wood’s grain pattern; one piece of Oak may have more dense grain than another. “Clear” woods are specifically selected as boards with little to no knots or imperfections, while “character” woods may have more knots and imperfections or “character”. All hardwood species undergo a natural aging process. Many species of wood such as Cherry, Maple, and Oak will darken with time while others, such as Walnut, may lighten. Keep in mind that decorations, lamps or table runners placed on your new piece will slow the natural aging process. The surrounding wood will darken or lighten at a natural rate while the wood that is not exposed to oxygen and UV light will not. This will cause “tanlines” on the furniture, which will even out once the decorations are moved. To avoid this, you can rotate the decorations every so often, to ensure that the entire piece is evenly exposed over time. 

Catalyzed Varnish is the most commonly used finish in the high-end furniture market. Catalyzed varnish consists of two parts, the finish liquid and a hardener (called the catalyst) that gets mixed in just before application. Catalyzed Varnish has excellent resistance to foods, beverages and common household chemicals.This finish offers a very hard, mar-resistant surface, but like any finish, it may still be scratched or damaged if not cared for properly.  Dyes and inks may discolor the finish; the ink and dyes from newsprints and plastic bags may penetrate into the finish when moist. The maximum temperature of things placed on finish should not exceed 140 degrees Fahrenheit. 

It is recommended to keep furniture away from any direct source of heating and/or cooling such radiators, heating vents or wood stoves, as dry air can cause the wood to warp or crack. Avoid storing furniture in an attic or cellar-type environment.

A natural material; solid hardwood furniture will respond to changes in temperature and humidity by slightly expanding and contracting; swelling in high humidity of summer or shrinking in dry colder months of winter.  Wood may warp or split, and under extreme circumstances. Your home’s indoor humidity level should be between 35-45 percent and the temperature between 60-80 degrees all year long. Maine is notorious for its extreme winters, so it may be worth investing in a humidifier and/or dehumidifier. If you have a summer home in Maine, try to make sure that your home remains at an even temperature while you are away, in order to protect your hardwood furniture from environmental extremes. Seasonal gapping or minor cracks in the grain pattern are considered normal and are not considered a defect of materials or craftsmanship.

Regular dusting – every few days or so – is the best way to keep your furniture looking new and  preventing dust from settling on the wood. Soft cloths and feather dusters work well, but they will only move the dust away from the furniture and back into the air. A lambs-wool duster with lanolin or a slightly damp terry cloth will capture dust and keep your furniture dust-free for an additional few days.

For routine cleaning use a soft, damp cloth following the grain pattern. It is important to frequently refold the cloth to a clean side as it becomes dirty. A soiled, damp cloth can redeposit soil onto the finish. You may occasionally clean with a non-alkaline soap. Do not use any polishes that contain silicone. We recommend the Amish Heirloom Spotless Cleaner and Fine Furniture Polish, which you can find at Sweet Dreams. When using non-abrasive cleaning products, it is still recommended that you follow-up with a soft cloth and warm, soapy water. The finish of your piece is durable and resistant to most household spills. However, all spills should be wiped up promptly to avoid potential problems. Occasionally, there may be a lingering scent left behind from the Catalyzed varnish. This, much like a new-paint smell, will dissipate over time. It is okay to use a solution of equal parts water and white vinegar if you feel that there is an excessive odor or a mildew scent. 

• Avoid spilling nail polish remover, alcohol or any other solvents on your piece.
• Do not use products that are ammonia-based or contain silicone.
• Avoid using any polishes that are oil based.
• Use polishes sparingly, as they tend to build up a film on the finish that will attract dust and soil. When moving or adding leaves to your table, do not drag it. This places unnecessary stress on the joints.
• Never use all-purpose cleaning sprays on your wood furniture, as some contain bleach, alcohol or other chemicals that can stain or strip the wood surfaces.